Dinner under the stars in the Agafay desert: my ideal evening from the villa

There is one question my guests ask me almost every time, usually on the second or third evening: "What if we had dinner somewhere else, somewhere truly different?" My answer is one word: Agafay. Less than an hour's drive away, this stone desert offers an evening that has nothing in common with a city restaurant. You go for the sunset, you stay for dinner, and on the way back everyone talks about the sky.

I have already presented Agafay as a day trip. Here I want to talk about something else: the evening, from late afternoon until you are back at the villa, and the details that make the difference between a "touristy" dinner and a real moment.

Why Agafay in the evening rather than during the day

Agafay is a rocky desert, not a desert of dunes: ochre, stony hills, dry riverbeds and, to the south, the line of the High Atlas, often snow-capped in winter. In the middle of the day the light flattens the landscape. It reveals itself in the late afternoon: the hills gain depth, the colours turn copper then pink, and the peaks light up one last time before nightfall.

Then comes the show you cannot see from the city: the starry sky. Far from the lights of Marrakech you can see many more stars, and on moonless nights the Milky Way sometimes becomes visible. If you can choose your date, check the lunar calendar: a night close to the new moon makes the sky far more spectacular.

How a great evening unfolds

Here is the rhythm I recommend to my guests, to be adjusted to the season:

• Leave the villa in mid-afternoon. Agafay lies about thirty kilometres south-west of Marrakech; allow roughly 40 minutes to an hour depending on the camp and traffic.
• Arrive an hour before sunset. Time for a short camel ride, a walk along the ridges or simply a mint tea facing the Atlas.
• Sunset. Depending on the season it falls roughly between 5 pm and 7 pm. Don't miss it: it is the heart of the evening.
• Drinks at dusk, around the fire or under the lanterns.
• Dinner, usually a Moroccan menu served at the table or under a tent.
• Stargazing after the meal, with the lights off if the camp allows it.
• Back to the villa late in the evening, for a last drink by the pool.

Choosing the right camp

Camps have multiplied in Agafay and they are not all equal. Before booking, I always check a few points:

The atmosphere. Some camps focus on entertainment: music, dancers, long shared tables. Others play the card of calm, with well-spaced tables and discreet lighting. For a couple or a family who want to enjoy the silence, I favour the second option. For a birthday among friends, the first can be very festive.

The size. A small camp offers a more intimate experience. A large camp often has more activities, but also more people and noise.

The food. Ask for the menu in advance. The classic includes Moroccan salads, tagine or couscous, sometimes méchoui, and fruit or pastries. Mention any special diets when booking (vegetarian, gluten-free, allergies, children): in the middle of the desert it is hard to improvise.

The private dinner. For a special occasion, some providers set up a table just for you, away from the camp. It is my favourite option for a proposal or a couple's anniversary.

The terms. Prices and services vary a lot from one camp to another and with the season: always ask for a written quote stating what is included (transfer, activities, drinks).

What to bring

People often forget it: the desert gets cold at night, even after a hot day. In winter, night-time temperatures frequently drop below 10 °C, sometimes much lower. In spring and autumn the evening stays cool. My little Agafay bag:

• a warm jacket or fleece, even in October;
• a scarf or shawl for dining outdoors;
• closed shoes, as the ground is stony;
• a head torch or your phone light to move between the tents;
• sunscreen and sunglasses for the late afternoon;
• some cash in dirhams for tips.

In summer, on the other hand, the evening is very pleasant: it is even the best time to enjoy the desert, once the heat of the day subsides.

Which season to choose?

Spring and autumn are my favourite seasons: mild late afternoons, cool but comfortable nights, often clear skies. Winter offers the most beautiful views of the snowy Atlas, provided you dress warmly and choose a camp with braziers or a heated tent. In summer, you leave later to arrive as the heat drops, and enjoy a very mild night.

Agafay with the family or as a couple

With children, the evening works very well: the camels, the campfire and the stars appeal to all ages. I simply advise choosing a camp close to Marrakech to limit the drive, and planning a not-too-late return for the little ones.

As a couple, it is one of the most romantic experiences I know around Marrakech. A secluded table, a few lanterns, total silence: it is often the memory my guests mention first in their farewell message.

Organising the evening from Villa Soukarya

The great advantage of leaving from the villa is peace of mind. With the van and driver available as an option, you neither have to drive on desert tracks at night nor look for your camp in the dark. We set the departure time according to that day's sunset, pass on your menu preferences to the provider, and your driver waits to bring you back.

And when you return, the villa is waiting too: the heated pool, the sauna to warm up after a cool night, and the calm of the Amelkis estate. The next day, I recommend a quiet morning by the water: the desert often leaves a pleasant tiredness.

To plan your dinner under the stars, simply share your dates and wishes via the Booking page: we will help you choose the camp and timing that suit your group.